Bibliography

Images

•  Avant Garde. (unknown). Likeable Hairstyle. Available: http://www.db18.com/hairstyles/hairstyles/avant-garde-hairstyles/page/3/. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Christopher Stevens. (8th June 2013). Is this proof the Virgin Queen was an imposter in drag? Shocking new theory about Elizabeth I unearthed in historic manuscripts. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2337774/Is-proof-Virgin-Queen-imposter-drag-Shocking-new-theory-Elizabeth-I-unearthed-historic-manuscripts.html. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Daily mail. (27th December 2012). The secret of beautiful braids.Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2253649/The-secret-beautiful-braids-Kirsten-Dunsts-pretty-hair-style-huge-year-Heres-look-home-.html. Last accessed 1st Dec 2014.
• ·         Deborah Lane. (2007). Elizabethan Pill Box Hats. Available: http://webspace.webring.com/people/lo/oonaghsown/curves/pill_box_hats.htm. Last accessed 1st Dec 2014.
• ·         Demi Elf. (2014). Victorian hairstyles. Available: http://weheartit.com/entry/48846152. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         DIY fashion sense. (January 26 2014). Romantic Braids. Available: http://diyfashionsense.wordpress.com/. Last accessed 1st Dec 2014.
• ·         Elizabeth R. (2014). period makeups. Available: http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/elizabethr.htm. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         FASHIONDESIGN. (2013). 30 TOP BEST BRIDAL HAIRSTYLES FOR ANY WEDDING. Available: http://allforfashiondesign.com/30-top-best-bridal-hairstyles-for-any-wedding/. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Julia Gurule. (October 21st 2014). Amy Winehouse. Available: http://sites.psu.edu/guliajurule/2014/10/21/amy-winehouse/. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Linda Alchin. (June 2014). Tudor Hats. Available: http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-hats.htm. Last accessed 1st Dec 2014.
• ·         Liz. (January 9th 2012). Fashion’s Least-Sexy Accessories: The Coif.Available: http://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2012/01/09/fashions-least-sexy-accessories-the-coif/. Last accessed 1st Dec 2014.
• ·         Phillipa. (2014). TUDOR LADY CLASS. Available: http://www.cardinal-creations.com/joomla/index.php/classes/tudor-lady-class. Last accessed 1st Dec 2014.
• ·         Unknown. (8th Aug 2007). spring/summer 07 hair trends - step back in time. Available: http://www.handbag.com/beauty-bag/i448786/springsummer-07-hair-trends-step-back-in-time-alexander-mcqueen.html. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Unknown. (9th December ). ONLY GAGA CAN LOOK THIS GOOD WITH HAIR LIKE THAT. Available: http://mwafrika-nywele.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/only-gaga-can-look-this-good-with-that.html. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Unknown. (2014). The Latest Bob, Shag Hairstyles,Up-do Hairstyles and Braided Hairstyles for 2014 - See more at: http://www.prettydesigns.com/the-latest-bob-shag-hairstyleup-do-hairstyle-and-braided-hairstyle-for-2014. Available: http://www.prettydesigns.com/the-latest-bob-shag-hairstyleup-do-hairstyle-and-braided-hairstyle-for-2014/. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.

Websites

• ·         Isobel Bedingfield. (October 2004). Two Elizabethan Hairstyles. Available: http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/twoelizabethanhairstyles.html. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.
• ·         Linda Alchin. (May 16th 2012). Elizabethan Hair Styles. Available: www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm. Last accessed 4th Dec 2014.

Books

• ·         Alan Dessen (30th Jan 1986). Elizabethan stage conventions and modern interpreters. Unknown: Cambridge University Press. 204.
• ·         Sasha Coefield (31st Jan 2014). DIY Braids From Crowns to Fishtails, Easy, Step-by-Step Hair Braiding Instructions. Unknown: Adams Media Corporation . 144.

Timed Assessment - In the role of the stylist evaluation

Unfortunately due to Bethany’s absence I had no clue of what I would be designing and I feel there was a lack of communication on her part because although she was absent she still could have sent me her ideas via the internet so I could have had some practice but this was never done.

However before my assessment I had some time to quickly run through Bethany’s design to get an idea of what I would be creating. Bethany wanted me to create a ring of curls around her head, the middle part of her hair gelled down and the bottom part crimped and back combed so it stays up in the air. When it came down to me doing the assessment I did struggle slightly as Bethany has quite short hair and the design she wanted me to create should have been created on someone with perhaps slightly longer hair. This is because at the bottom of her hair she originally wanted it back combed so it lifted in the air and stuck out at the sides but because her hair was short and quite dry it just looked like a big ball of fluff. So therefore we decided to change it by tucking the hair underneath making it look a bit neater and we found this definitely worked better.

Overall I am happy with the outcome because everything else on her hair I found quite straight forward so it all went smoothly and although I was unable to practice beforehand I still feel pleased that I managed to pull it off and have a successful outcome.

Front/to the side view

Side view

Back view

Timed Assessment - In the role of the designer evaluation

In my final assessment I really wanted a heart shape design with padding because I feel it is very Elizabethan but yet still modern. I made my design contemporary by having loose curls dangling at the back rather than the tight curls which they had back in the Elizabethan times and I feel the loose curls made it look like a bridesmaid. I also chose to use a modernised big bun at the back of the head.

Unfortunately my partner Bethany was absent in the time we all got to practice our designs so she didn’t actually get a chance to practice the design on me before the assessment. However I did give her clear instructions with a step by step guide, images of me practising the design and drawings which I created on the hair charts and I feel this helped her a lot.

I feel Bethany struggled a bit when creating the heart shape as she was finding it slightly hard to pin the padding into the plaits properly to keep them in place. Also I would have liked my heart shape design to have been slightly bigger in height.

What I did like about the design is the way Bethany created my modernised bun at the back as I feel she sectioned it and back combed it really well making it look very full. I also liked the curls she created which dangled down at the back.

Overall I feel Bethany did a good job because although she didn’t get the chance to practice on me due to her absence, she did pull it off and the look she created was very close to my design.

Drawing 1

Drawing 2

Step by step guide

My ideal look from the front view

My ideal look from the side

My ideal look from behind

Bethany's creation for my final design

Front view

Side view

Practising my final design

Due to my partner being absent I was unable to practise creating her final design so instead I created my final design on Charlie.
This is the look I chose to be created for my final assessment. Firstly I started by separating the hair into a T-section (a section at the front left, front right and at the back). I then left a small section of the hair out at the front of the head (both sides) and then crimped them and pinned them behind the ears using Kirby grips. I then created a small plait in the middle of both sections, leaving some hair left out at the front and at the back. I got two pads, pinned one into the plait on the left side and then repeated the same on the right using Kirby grips as this helped to keep the padding in tightly and then I back combed the rest of the hair on both sections. I gently brushed all the hair over the pads making sure there were no gaps showing and used hair from the front and the back to help cover it all. I then curled all the lose hair left over after brushing it back over the padding and I pinned all the curls up, again using Kirby grips so they dangled down the back. With the rest of the hair at the back I tied it into a basic ponytail with a hair band and then back combed the hair in the ponytail in small sections. With each section I then tucked it under and pinned it using Kirby grips to create a big bun. To finish I used a little bit of hairspray to keep all the hair in place.

Designs for final assessment

No.1 Design

No.2 Design

No.3 Design (FINAL DESIGN)

No.4 Design

No.5 Design

I have chosen No.3 as my final design for my assessment because I knew I always wanted to have a heart shape design with padding but I also liked the crimped parts at the front as I feel this is a bit different. I also thought it looked contemporary with the loose curls at the back making it look like a bridesmaid hairstyle which I really liked the thought of.

Research for final assessment

Here are some contemporary hairstyles in which I researched for my final assessment.

I have always liked the heart shape hairstyle because I feel wearing the hair brushed over the pads creates a kind of beehive look, which is very trendy as a more modern version of the design is still worn today.

I love the way how these images are made contemporary by being a bit messier and not kept as neat as they would have been back in the Elizabethan times. Also I like the way Katie Price has her heart shape design in curls with it back combed I think it looks very effective and unique.

I also really like this contemporary hairstyle because I feel it really fits in well with the Elizabethan era. You are still able to see that close curls are still worn with long hair gathered into a bun at the back that would have usually been covered with a small cap or a hair net.

I really like this image and I feel it really fits in well with the Elizabethan era because of the curls and the way a lose bun has been created at the back with the curls. I feel this image shows it is contemporary because the curls are much loser then they would have been back in the Elizabethan times. I feel the image gives a look of a bridesmaid, it looks very natural and elegant.

I really like this image because I like the way the hair is only crimped at the front. I think it looks very different and unique and it still fits into the Elizabethan era but has just been made more modern.

Source for Images: http://www.handbag.com/beauty-bag/i448786/springsummer-07-hair-trends-step-back-in-time-alexander-mcqueen.html

http://www.db18.com/hairstyles/hairstyles/avant-garde-hairstyles/page/3/

http://allforfashiondesign.com/30-top-best-bridal-hairstyles-for-any-wedding/

http://www.prettydesigns.com/the-latest-bob-shag-hairstyleup-do-hairstyle-and-braided-hairstyle-for-2014/

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/fe/ac/17/feac174d19f9bd8476bbe3c4b00320d0.jpg

Wiggle Plaits and Back Combing

Wiggle Plaits

When creating a wiggle plait it is important to brush through the hair so there are no knots. It isn't as hard as it appears, you firstly start by creating a simple plait down the head. Once you have done that you hold the middle section of the plait and gently push the other two sides up towards the top of the plait.

Back combing

When back combing you simply grab a section of hair and back comb in the direction of the hair in order to get a much fuller look. Make sure you take your time and not rush it so you are able to get the best possible outcome.

I learnt that it can be very difficult to back comb on someone who has very fine hair so a technique which I was taught was to apply crimpers to the root of the hair first and then begin your back combing. This is because the heat will thicken the hair, giving it more volume to gain an effective result.

Starting off the back combing

Back view

Front view

Contemporary Elizabethan Hairstyles

I have done some research into contemporary Elizabethan hairstyles and two very famous people who have always been well know for their hair is Lady Gaga and Amy Winehouse.

I feel this image of Lady Gaga relates back to the Elizabethan era because of how her hair is all swept back off her face with frizzy bits around the front of her head. The height of the hairstyle also fits in with the Elizabethan era because it was extremely popular to have big hair. However Lady gaga has made it contemporary by having very long dreadlocks and colouring her hair bright white. Her hair is also very messy and untidy where as in the Elizabethan times their hair would be looking immaculate with every hair in place. Lady Gaga's pale make-up with red lips also relates back to the Elizabethan period as well as the ruff she is wearing. 

http://mwafrika-nywele.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/only-gaga-can-look-this-good-with-that.html

Secondly there is Amy Winehouse who was always well known for her huge beehive hairstyle. The padding and the big thick hair made it look very much like the Elizabethan times, although it's amde contemporary as she still always kept her side fringe dangling down her face where as in the Elizabethan period all the hair would be swept right back off the face. Amy's hair also looked a lot more untidy and was never as neat as the Elizabethan's hair.

http://sites.psu.edu/guliajurule/2014/10/21/amy-winehouse/

Creating Elizabethan Hairstyles - Working on each other

We now began practising on each other rather than just working on our styling heads. I knew it would be different from working on the head but I have styled friends hair before so I wasn't too worried. I did find that working on a person was much easier than working on the styling head.

The first Elizabethan hairstyle I created was a heart shape design including curls and crimping.

I began by sectioning the hair into a T-section leaving two strands of hair at the left and right side of the front of the head. I then crimped each section and created a small plait in the middle of both sections, leaving some hair left out from the front and back. I placed two pads and pinned them into the plait, to do this I pierced Kirby grips through the tight on the padding and twisted them into the plait to keep the padding in tightly. I then back combed the rest of the hair on the left and right section brushing all the hair over the pads making sure there were no gaps showing. With the hair left at the front I used the curlers to curl the strands of hair and clip them up. At the end I managed to create a crimped heart shaped design with tight curls at the front of the head. 

Next I created an Elizabethan hairstyle by just using plaits. I started by sectioning the hair into two sections at the back and a section at the front. I began French plaiting the front of the hair starting from the left, making my way round to the right and pinning it under using Kirby grips. I then created normal plaits down the left and right section and pinned them over using Kirby grips to create a loop each side. Beth's hair is braided and I found it very interesting and useful working on her hair. 

Padding (hair rats) and Shaping

To create this design I started by taking a section of hair from the front of the head but leaving a small section out for me to curl. When curling the front section of the hair I thought the curls weren't as tight as I would have liked them to have been and I think this is due to me taking big sections of hair to curl, rather than keeping them small. I then took a bigger section of hair from behind the curls, big enough to cover the padding and then crimped this section of hair. I then created a small French plait in the crimped section of hair to attach the padding to. To keep this plait in place I wrapped the end back over the top of the plait and pinned it into place with Kirby grips.

After that I then got some padding and placed it over the plait making sure it was an appropriate size to fit this side of the head. I then pinned the padding in place and to do this I used Kirby grips to pierce through the tight and twisted the grip around and pushed it into the plait to keep it in place. I pierced it a few times around the padding to make sure it was secure.

Next I got the crimped section of hair and gently brushed it over the padding to cover it, making sure no gaps were showing. I tucked the ends of the hair under the padding and used Kirby grips to keep it there, also making sure the hair grips didn't show.

After creating that, I then pinned the curls up on top of the head in front of the padding to finalise my Elizabethan hair design.

I was very happy with the outcome seen as this was my first attempt, although I feel I still need some more practice to improve certain parts such as, the curls and increasing the height of the hair over the padding.

Curling, Crimping and Frizzing

Here are some images which I researched, they show how their hair was curled and crimped.

Source: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2337774/Is-proof-Virgin-Queen-imposter-drag-Shocking-new-theory-Elizabeth-I-unearthed-historic-manuscripts.html

Source: http://weheartit.com/entry/48846152

Source: http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/elizabethr.htm

Curling

In order to get the best curl you should get a small section of hair, place the end of the hair under the metal clasp at the end of the tongs and carefully roll the tongs up the head with the hair wrapping around it. Always hold the curling tongs vertically as close to the root as you can without burning the person so you are able to create a nice shape. To get a nice tight curl it is better to use small sections of hair and always hold the curl in place with a Kirby grip so the curl stays tight as this will help it to last longer as well. 

Crimping

It is very simple to crimp only as long as you hold the hair straight so you are able to get the best possible effect. You just grab a small section of hair and brush it through so there are no knots, you comb to the top of the roots, pull it down and place the crimper's onto the hair. You hold it there for approximately 10 seconds depending on the thickness of the hair and go down the length of hair in sections so that every part of the hair is eventually crimped. You can get a lot of volume from crimping and it gives the hair a lovely texture.

After creating this look I brushed the hair design out to see how it would look. The curls looked a lot more natural and the crimping looked a lot frizzier and more bushy. I preferred the hairstyle before brushing it out.

Crimping the hair with grips and straightners

You simply get a small piece of hair, place it in between the Kirby grip and twist the hair around the hair grip from one side to another. To get a tight curl again use smaller sections. When you have twisted all the hair you can keep it in place with a Kirby grip and then gently press the straightners on the hair which is tucked around the hair grip and hold for approximately 5 seconds. Then take the grip out and you will be able to see a lovely, tight curl.

After creating this look I then brushed it out to see what effect it would give. It made the hair look extremely frizzy and I thought it will be a great style to use if you were trying to create an afro hairstyle.